Cruisin' on the Bosphorus

Today, the Global Scholars set off to explore the Bosphorus on a ferry. After getting up bright and early, we met at the Eminönü Docks which are right across from the dorms we've been staying in. Once we boarded and found some seats, we set off, bouncing from stop to stop on each side of the Bosphorus. The views were incredible. We saw some beautiful houses on the coastline as well as some historical sights and castles. It was amazing to be out on the blue water (some of the bluest I've seen in person) and to see almost the entire city of Istanbul from a distance. 

After rounding off the hour and a half up the Bosphorus, we stopped at a little town called Anadolu Kavagi and had a bite to eat - I had some amazing seafood (mussels, calamari, AND sea bass) for the equivalent of 12 USD. Even one of our vegetarians was tempted into trying some! It was delicious and coincidentally the first time I ate a fish that still had a face on it. Looking the fish in the face as I ate it was certainly a new experience, but overall one I would try again.

The town was a nice change from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul. It was good to get out of the city, and although the area was still pretty touristy, seeing the suburbs of Istanbul was an interesting experience. The town looked more like one would expect a town in a "developing" country would look like. It really showed how quickly the city of Istanbul has been growing and developing! After we finished eating, some of us explored the town while the rest headed up to a nearby castle. I stuck around town to do some shopping and ended up getting some ice cream with some of the other Global Scholars. Turkish ice cream has nothing on Italian gelato, but that doesn't mean I'd turn it down either! After we finished, we regrouped with the rest of our group and got back on the boat for another beautiful ride, but this time back to our dorms. All in all, it was a great, relaxing day - a perfect mixture of cruising on the river and eating great food.

The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and so much more

Be warned that this blog post might be a bit picture-heavy. The day began with all of us piling onto the bus and heading for Bilgi University's main campus. Class was spent discussing modernization theory and dependency theory, and how each is related to liberalism and Marxism respectively. 

Interior of Hagia Sophia

A side view of Hagia Sophia

After class and a quick lunch at the school's cafeteria, we headed back to the dormitories to prepare for the rest of our day. Our scheduled afternoon activity was a tour of Hagia Sophia, and one of the Blue Mosque. We took our time enjoying the beauty of Hagia Sophia, while learning from a detailed tour given by Professor Brian Flanagan, Professor of Theology and Religious Studies at Marymount University. 

Although the plan was to enter the Blue Mosque right after exiting Hagia Sophia, our group walked outside and was welcomed by the call to prayer. Because the Blue Mosque would be packed with people for the half-hour surrounding the call to prayer, we decided to wander around the surrounding area as we waited. We dispersed, only gathering again inside the mosque for a few group photos. 

Part of our group standing at the Wishing Column in Hagia Sophia

The Blue Mosque was amazing. My favorite aspect was that while the mosque shows so much history and legacy, it is not a museum like Hagia Sophia--it is still used for its original purpose. There is an enormous, open area at the center of the mosque, with a beautiful and low-hanging chandelier overhead. This section of the mosque is the praying area for men, while women pray around the edge of the mosque behind a swinging wooden gate. 

Men's praying area at the Blue Mosque

At the so-called "pillow restaurant"

My group went for dinner after seeing the mosques, and ate at a fascinating restaurant. Although it was by no means cheap, and clearly a tourist spot to the point of being gimmicky, it was amazing. As the photo shows, we were all perched on pillows, lounging as we enjoyed our food. 

Today was a busy day. Although the places we visited were pretty obvious tourist locations, I enjoyed seeing pieces of the city infused with history and culture. 

An Eventful Day: Beginning Thoughts

From our side of the European Istanbul

            Walking about in Istanbul our first day back, I was instantly reminded why I love being near the sea.  One frustrating thing in Rome was the static air—there was no air movement, and so the heat just sat on you all day.  The Bosphorus provides a near-constant breeze.  That alone makes the weather here all the more bearable in comparison to Rome.  The Bosphorus Strait is gorgeous; it seems to extend forever and the water is so blue!  There are plans to take a tour up and down the Bosphorus Strait this weekend and I can't wait to be on the water. J

Inside a rug shop

The ceiling of the Grand Bazaar

            That first full day in Istanbul was full of discovery.  A group of us set out around mid-day to go explore, aiming to walk around the Grand Bazaar all day.  While the Grand Bazaar was lovely, I loved the smaller, and more crowded, Spice Bazaar which we passed through and marveled at on the journey to and from the Grand Bazaar.  Everything was so colorful!  There were detailed and delicate patterns on almost everything we say (even the food!) and it was lively and chaotic.  That is another point of comparison between Rome and Istanbul. In Rome, the neighborhood we were staying at was calm and quiet; the really crowded places were the main tourist sites.  Here, everywhere is busy.  Istanbul is a very active city, and the crowds are not relegated to tourists at specific locations. 

Cat on a hot tin roof, literally

A bridge between the two European sides

            On the cute side, many of us are falling in love with the cats that are everywhere!  There is a trio of kittens that play right outside our classroom.  On our walk to the restaurant for dinner, we pass by a mother and her kittens who live across the street, peeking out behind the gate as we walk by.  Looking out from our kitchen window, we can see a community of 7ish cats that spend their whole day on the roofs of the nearby buildings.  We even have experience talking a cat out of suicide!  Called Gary (or Paul depending on who you talk to), this cat seems to live on the roof of our building.  The first night here, we were up on the terrace, celebrating Caroline’s birthday (Happy Birthday Roommate!!) and we saw this cat inspecting the edge of the roof.  Below him was a construction site which is currently a deep pit in the ground, at least 7 stories down.  He would not leave the edge!  I think we were all a bit traumatized.  Luckily, he decided that that day was not the day to die and went back to the middle of the roof. 

            With a very eventful first day, we set the mood for our entire trip.  Exploring has become a daily event, and I personally want to see as much as possible!

Impressions of Istanbul

So, we've been in Istanbul for about a week. As with my post about Rome, I am always looking at the way cities embody their culture. What I found with Rome was frankly a little disappointing in the way that the city capitalized on its antiquity and, in doing so, distanced itself from its roots and isolated its rich history.

The Spice Bazaar

What I have found in Istanbul is quite the opposite. it is apparent that there are tourists in the city, and that certain minor modifications to say, the traffic system, have been made to accommodate these travelers. However, Istanbul is something very special in that its diverse, ancient history is embedded into the city. The culture is incredibly rich and there is a sense that people go about their business in a similar manner to how they did centuries ago. The Spice Bazaar, for instance, is hundreds of years old and still serves as a central marketplace for locals. Leaving the Spice Bazaar in the direction of the Grand Bazaar, one will encounter nothing but alleyways full of small family stores all specializing in one good. Continuing up the small streets, one will stumble into the back entrances to the Grand Bazaar, where the only significant difference is slightly more flashy and pricey goods. However, the big tourist destination simply blends into it surroundings and is a continuation of its environment. Had it been Rome, there might have been an entrance fee just to get in.
Perhaps what I enjoy most about the city is the sense of "authenticity" that you get. The Bazaars fulfill any stereotypes of an "eastern market" that one might expect to see but none of it seems catered to tourists. Shop keepers will invite you to sit down over a glass of tea while they tell you about the goods you are buying and negotiate prices.

I know it's not a good idea to compare one part of the trip to another, but I cannot think of two cities that more perfectly demonstrate the difference between a city that has isolated its history and a city that embraces its history and culture. I would not describe the condition of Rome as and "identity crisis", but more of a lack of solid identity. Istanbul is exactly the opposite in that it appears to be so deeply tied into its past that it is evident where there would be conflict in its attempts to integrate with Europe. Turkey is not an Arab country and any Turk will proudly/stubbornly confirm this. However, I get the sense that Turks do not necessarily feel European. Rather, Istanbul as a city that is modernizing but not "westernizing". Turkey has recently joined a customs union with the EU and there are skyscrapers being erected in corners of the city as evidence of an expanding and possibly "westernizing" economy.
At least from what I have observed and heard about the city, skyscrapers will not define the skyline of Istanbul, but mosques and palaces that have stood for centuries and will continue to be integral parts of the city for decades and centuries to come.

Day 21: Keeping Academics in Mind

The grounds around the Hagia Sophia

     The last person to post for our Italy rotation; no pressure. Our time in Rome has concluded and the Global Scholars have made their way back to Istanbul. Despite how the media portrayed Istanbul, life continues normally for many here or, at least, as normal as life is during Ramazan. Even in secular Turkey, the signs of this Muslim holiday are obvious from signs on city streets to being asked to leave a restaurant because it is reserved for those breaking fast at sundown. To compare Istanbul and Rome is to compare apples and oranges. After some experience with both fruits today, I can assure you both make great juice.

The Grand Bazaar

Blue Mosque Interior

     Some say "if you cannot find it in the Grand Bazaar it does not exist," meaning they sell everything there but, when it comes to cats, they give them away for free. Istanbul's, or, as I like to call it, "Catstantinople," cat problem is immediately apparently to anyone who sets foot in this impossible city. Young boys hustling grown men out of 100 lira when they got the knockoff Armani for less than 10, restaurants giving away free drinks just to get potential customers inside, brand new metros speeding past century old buildings; the list of unbelievable sights is endless in Istanbul. I began my Saturday by visiting the Grand Bazaar and joining the aforementioned group of men getting hustled by purchasing two Turkish leather belts over the, what I can believe were, counterfeit belts. With thoughts of international political economy still at the forefront of my mind, I saw globalization at every turn in the bazaar.

The Blue Mosque

     Wanting to resist purchasing any more unnecessary items, I quickly left the bazaar, but not before rehyrdrating myself with two cups of juice, and made my way to two of Turkey's other popular attractions: the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. (I'll have to make a second trip to visit the interior of the former as the line was too long today). Needless to say, both were beautiful even after three weeks spent living a tram ride away from sights like the Colosseum and the Vatican. Istanbul's split personality came out as I looked over to the Blue Mosque's unique six minarets (towers) while waiting for the tram having just bought my Istanbulcard with lira I had converted from euros just a few hours prior. The modern and ancient surprisingly didn't clash but instead blended together to create a image of Istanbul representative of the city's location bridging Europe and Asia. Istanbul provides a environment exceptionally conducive to studying international development.

"Catstantinople"

Home

I cannot help but stare in awe as I sit on the rooftop of our Bilgi University dorm building and soak in the glorious Istanbul that surrounds me. I can see the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, and the still Bosphorus lit up under the bright night sky. I can hear the hum of the city broken by a call to prayer from our next door Mosque. The ringing voice echoes past the proud Turkish flag and bounces against the hilltop, surrounding me. I look across to Asia at the blue flashing lights of the Bosphorus Bridge and think about how, just a few weeks ago, that bridge was the spotlight of international attention. I feel goosebumps on the back of my neck that remind me that this moment is not a dream. This is Istanbul. It is beautiful. And for the next three weeks, it is home.

These past few weeks, I have had many discussions with other Global Scholars about what home truly means. Is a home just one place? Is home where your loved ones are? Is home the place where you spend the most of your time? Or can it be a place where you barely spend any time at all anymore?

During our time in Rome, we all referred to our apartments as our 'homes;' they were places we would go to relax and feel fully comfortable. In fact, even when we left Rome today to travel to Istanbul, I looked out the bus window with the sinking feeling that I really was leaving. That the beautiful culture and city that we had lived in and spent so much time in was no longer ours to call home. We passed worn graffiti, swarms of Alfa Romeos and Vespas, and the Gelateria that we had grown so fond of. Though it was sad to leave that home behind, arriving in Istanbul has opened my eyes to the amazing experiences we are going to have now that our new home is in this amazing city.

I have come to realize that a place is not a home - it is simply a place. A person is not a home - they are simply a person. What home is, or at least, what I have come to believe home is, is a combination of those two. My home is the place where I live and feel the most comfortable, with the people I live with and feel completely at ease with. Home is our childhood house and all of it's memories. Home is our dorm room in Washington DC. Home is our apartment in Rome. Home is now Istanbul.

Our first dinner in Istanbul at Murat - such delicious food!

A sample meal. Can't wait for what's to come!

L'ultimo Giorno

Today was very bittersweet. The completion of final exams and presentations for a class at the end of the semester usually leave me with a feeling of excitement and relief. Today, however, I do not feel that way. Instead, I lament leaving the country I have come to love and (temporarily at least) call my home.

Intesa Sanpaolo, Italy's 2nd largest bank

As I walked home from class today, I considered the surroundings and my time here. I cannot help but look at Italy not as just a home away from home, but also as a classroom. After my policy brief on Italy’s banks, I will never be able to look at a UniCredit on the street or in the news without telling the person next to me that it is Italy’s second largest bank, or any of the other trivial facts I have learned. Furthermore, I am convinced that the various Gelato shops throughout Rome are colluding on their prices. Outside of the classroom, Rome has taught me to take things a little easier and that sometimes it is ok to just see where life takes you.

Rome has this way on creeping up into your heart. When I first came, it was very easy to point out all of the things I disliked: the lack of air conditioning, arguably the worst internet connection known to man, and a dismal public transportation system that seems to arrive at some point between when you get to the bus stop and an hour later. The culture was also foreign, and I still to this day do not know why the man who runs the grocery store across the street shoots me the biggest scowl whenever I walk in. (Ok, maybe that has something to do with paying a grocery bill with coins at one point, but still, money is money.) Regardless, I have only good things to say about my time in Italy, and I can honestly say that even the characteristics I found myself disliking in the first couple of days I now look upon with endearment.

The Global Scholars crew touring Ostia Antica

Whenever SIS has its study abroad fairs, I used to wonder how exactly they managed to get so many students who were willing to take time out of their busy day to talk to other students about their abroad experiences. Now that I have studied abroad myself, I completely understand. The past three weeks have some of the best of my whole life, with some of the best people I have ever known, and I cannot wait to see what Turkey is like.

Professor James Walston, one of our wonderful guest lecturers, prefaced his lecture on Italian politics with a quote from The Leopard, an Italian novel written by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa: “Se vogliamo che tutto rimanga com'è bisogna che tutto cambi” or “We’ve got to change everything for it to stay the same.” After spending the last three weeks changing everything I was used to, I can honestly say that I have to disagree with Professor Walston. I am no longer the same person I was three weeks ago, and I cannot wait to see how Istanbul changes me in the next three weeks.